How To Repair An Oscillating Idle On A 1991 Toyota Tercel

First time information technology happened was on a really rough 10 miles of trail going over Mt. Taylor terminal Baronial. Got to the 9,000 plus laissez passer and he just wouldn't idle. Ran fine but as before long as I went to neutral and let off the throttle he would die. I figured that all that sloshing around acquired the car to suck upward some gook from the bottom of the gas tank. Coming downwardly the mount.. information technology came out of it and once back in town I put a bottle of isopropel in the tank. No bug until a calendar week ago last Friday. Filled the tank and went the 1/2 mile home. Next day driving in slush up virtually 7,000 feet elv. the same thing occured. This fourth dimension information technology came and went so I figured I got a tank of bad gas. Again put in isoprolel and also tried out some bounding main foam ( pricy stuff) and put 2/iii in the tank and drizzled the remainder down the carb. Ran good all week then he acted up on Thursday evening so I topped the tank off with some ethanol 91 octane. No assistance in that location. Saturday I put in a Niehoff carb kit from Checkers. Basically the same problem subsequently. I even so think gas has something to do with it because of the intermittant nature merely I would accept thought with that much isopropel, sea cream, and ethanol, it would override most moisture/gook. I wonder almost vacuum leaks contributing simply they wouldn't come and self heal.
I am open up to suggestions.
thanks

Post by **takza** » Mon Dec 31, 2007 4:45 am

Easiest matter to effort would be a new fuel filter...I seen Corollas terminate running when they plug upwardly.

Could have an air leak in your gas line...pulling air instead of gas?

Check your gas cap...it has two valves in information technology...i to let air in and ane to let vapors out...IF the force per unit area differential gets to be besides loftier. Since you are talking mt passes....

Tue Jan 01, 2008 4:21 pm

Then I started to systematically replace stuff. Fuel filter first...no change..did the gas cap next...no change. Ran diagnostics on all the things the Big Tercel Repair guide suggests for rough idle and dies. Decided to get to the new Super U Pull it and see what I could scrounge. Plant an 86 Tercel hatchback with on 75k...carb looked new and I removed information technology and all the EC system with vacuum lines intact. Replaced everything on my Tercel except the charcoal canister. Car started up fine and had to do some minor adjusting but even with all this stuff replaced, it idled rough and died. I prepare the idle upwardly to 2,000 rpm and permit him run for 1/ii hour in the driveway. Did some full throttle runs up the boulevard then some 45 mph sustained 2nd gear half-dozen,000 rpm runs up and downwardly a mile stretch. Backed off the idle rpm to almost 1,200 and although withal crude didn't die. And so it started to run polish and the rpm went up. So it went downwards, ran rough and died. I'grand back to my original diagnosis...bad fuel. I feel similar going back out onto the boulevard and doing some more high rpm runs merely at that place is a office of me that just wants to exercise some total throttle height rpm ability shifts. Alas the Tercel wouldn't accept the punishment. In the late 60's, I used to lash out with a testosterone rush on the 63 Chevy Two SS. I built up a modest block with four bolt main 327, 780 Holly with headers, a rock crusher Muncie 4 speed and 486 posi rear stop. half-dozen,000 rpm out of the Chevy 2 came fast and furious. Full throttle power shifts were wild and crazy and left some tough to claiming burn out tracks. I think I'thousand going to rest at present.

Post past **splatterdog** » Tue Jan 01, 2008 5:30 pm

Try checking power and ground at the 1st fuel cut solenoid on the carb. If that's ok, with primal on, unplug and plug it and you lot should hear a click.

Only had to fix a bad basis on my 83 FJ60's solenoid. If it isn't working there won't be any fuel at both idle and off idle.

Saturday Jan 05, 2008 9:33 am

Did a few more things similar checking fuel shut off selenoids..have three ..no change..checked for vacuum leaks at the brake booster, charcoal canister...disabled the EBVC and moved the vacuum line from the carburetor horn to the port where the line went to the EBVC down at the carb base and he started to idle fine. Now when under power at anywhere above 1500 rpm he surges. Runs great under full throttle.

And so I've spent more fourth dimension with this than information technology took to change the whole engine.

I'm about to purchase a Weber online. Webercarbsdirect has a 34 DGEC for $249 and a 32/36 DGEV for $399. Anyone know the departure and or suggestions? I'd like to accept an electrical choke but I grew up with manual chokes and then information technology isn"t a large deal to me.

Post by **takza** » Saturday Jan 05, 2008 4:22 pm

Disable the EGR equally a test?

Postal service by **Snax** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 nine:25 am

Don Jorgensen wrote:
I'grand nearly to purchase a Weber online. Webercarbsdirect has a 34 DGEC for $249 and a 32/36 DGEV for $399. Anyone know the difference and or suggestions? I'd similar to have an electric asphyxiate merely I grew upwardly with manual chokes and so it isn"t a big bargain to me.

I only bought my 32/36 DGEV hither a couple of months ago:
http://www.racetep.com/weber/toyocarskit.html

It's simply $298.50 there.

I will say that information technology should not exist expected to be a cure of all driveability problems. I all the same have yet to figure out how to keep mine running when cold subsequently the choke goes off without just turning the idle stop in for a higher idle rpm. It also still dies on occassion while coasting down to stops fifty-fifty later on information technology's fully warmed up. Throw in the slightly sticky linkage at the throttle cam, and the stock carb doesn't seem so bad in comparison - if information technology's working right. The up side is that the Weber is dirt simple to understand and conform.

Mail service by **keith** » Sunday Jan 06, 2008 4:26 pm

I had a pasty throttle considering I replaced part of the Weber linkage with some of the linkage off the original carburetor and tightened it down too much. I loosened it and added a spring as shown in this flick

Lord's day Jan 06, 2008 9:56 pm

So Takza...I disabled the EGR and zero changed..I further checked the fuel solenoids and found a 1/8" piece of ? cable wire came out with the unit that may have allowed the click but not role...nothing inverse. Came in and read some previous threads about rough idle from Uuberdoober? from early November talked about moving some vacuum lines. I stated earlier that this helped simply the surging began and so. I split the line coming down from the horn going to the port on the lower carb past the air mixture adjustment and got some level of success. He idles fine and the surges at ii,000 rpm are much less.

quote]Snax stated, I volition say that it should not be expected to be a cure of all driveability problems. I still take nevertheless to figure out how to keep mine running when cold afterwards the choke goes off without just turning the idle stop in for a college idle rpm. Information technology besides still dies on occassion while coasting down to stops even afterward information technology's fully warmed upward. Throw in the slightly glutinous linkage at the throttle cam, and the stock carb doesn't seem and then bad in comparison - if information technology's working right. The upwardly side is that the Weber is dirt elementary to understand and accommodate.[

Given what Snax has to say in a higher place, I'll hold off the purchase and drive him this mode. Much improved.

Thanks to this forum for all the suggestions.
Don

Wednesday Aug 06, 2008 nine:18 pm

Well I gotta say since Xmas I've spent a lot of spare time hanging out nether the hood of theTercel. If you've read the previous comments I've made virtually things checked, rechecked, vacuum leak checking, carburetor rebuild, check and recheck vacuum line connections...all to no avail. The changes I made to routing vacuum lines resulted in a better running motor but dang poor mileage. Even took the manifold off and replaced gasket thinking huge subconscious vacuum leak...no aid there either.

Finally against all my reasoning and checking I decided to get a rebuilt carb from an outfit in Colorado. Cost $229 plus the cadre charge. Sort of anticlimactic merely Nope ....didn't help a bit...but the tech at the importcarbs.com was very helpful in suggesting where I should wait next.

Symptoms ...rough surging idle and dies below 1500. Lots of raw gas going down the primary..No vacuum at some ports of the carb. He suggested that the 1st fuel solenoid shut off be checked. Well I've done that several times non only checking off the battery simply plugging and unplugging the solenoid with the ignition switch on and I've gotten positive clicks. Even went so far as to take the solenoid off and wait at the little end needle motion on activation. Well the tech suggested that I could plug the solenoid hole with a bolt and cheque that way.. What practice I take to loose at this betoken? The rebuilt carb looks really good sittin at that place so I accept ane of v solenoids I have begging to exist put in service and I saw off the business end, clear of any burrs and saw stuff and install it.

I'grand back in the saddle again. Immediately the motor smooths out and after adjustments I now can idle surge gratuitous at 650, the fast idle kicks in when the Air conditioning is on, no more surging, and at this point the engine does not run on when the ignition is shut downwardly.

And so I haven't fixed the problem but I know that the 1st fuel shut off solenoid is not activating. I volition accept to trace where the voltage is lost to the solenoid simply I'm not in any hurry. Going back up to Taylor Pinnacle and do some touring.

Postal service by **terkill** » Thu Aug 07, 2008 11:29 am

Good luck on finding why the kickoff solenoid isnt activating!

but i have a couple random tips.. non sure if this has been tested or mention already, since I browsed through to become the quick story, but, This aforementioned affair happened to my neighbors civic. He was going to give it to me if i fixed it, but he cheaped out, simply take out the EGR valve and bring it to an auto zone and they will test it. Its usually that.. or i guess a throttle position sensor. Some other guesses would be a curt in the distributor cables?

Post past **Don Jorgensen** » Sat Oct 04, 2008 10:20 pm

Oh simply one more matter.
Had to take him for emissions tests here in Bernillio Co. NM. Didn't pass O2 at idle. Surmised that all the raw gas pouring downward the primaries due to the 1st. fuel cut off solenoid electric failure has puicked the catylitic converter. Wouldn't be so bad but a year agone I replaced the catylitc converter just to cover 240,000 miles of stuff flowing thru. Yup another $106 afterward and I'g legal again. Feels expert to have him running good and having passed emissions tests. I don't call back I fretted this much at my graduate degree exams.....but I guess that fourth dimension does level out highs and lows. At present on to some cruisin and enjoying the countryside.
p.south. the autozone fuel cap I purchased but 6 months ago did not pass the emissions test and the tech said that he has seen this oftentimes. I did not tell him information technology was an autozone cap.....he could tell what brand information technology was?
And then I went down the street and got a Walmart "Stanza" cheapie.... passed fine..

Mail past **Neu** » Sat Oct 04, 2008 11:ten pm

thank god i dont have to worry most this safety and emissions crap.

Cheers oregon.

Post by **Don Jorgensen** » Sun Oct 05, 2008 9:06 am

Correction
It was the Carbon Monoxide that failed at high rpm

I don't know besides much about Oregon air quality but Bernalillo Co. NM has times when the air doesn't move effectually much and the mountains proceed air pollution locked in.

I spent the summer of 2000 in Panama City, Panama. Now they could accept used some clean air standards. Only time y'all could take a deep jiff was virtually 4am.

We've made a lot of progress in the USA and I appreciate what the Clean Air and Clean Water Acts have accomplished since the early 70's.

I guess I should move these comments to general .....sorry

Post past **Neu** » Lord's day Oct 05, 2008 3:47 pm

oregon's pretty sparcely populated compared to other states, and the but place I know of in oregon that has emissions is portland.

How To Repair An Oscillating Idle On A 1991 Toyota Tercel

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How To Repair An Oscillating Idle On A 1991 Toyota Tercel,

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